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Memories of
Ladder Valley
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Memoirs:
Albert A. Bock
Al's story about
homesteading in
Ladder Valley, Sask
in the 1930s.
Beryl A. (Bock) McPhee
Beryl's story about
her childhood in
Watrous, Sask, and
life on a homestead
in Ladder Valley.
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'My
Commonplace Book'
By Beryl A. (Bock) McPhee
In the summer I was five my sister Myrl was born in a nursing home across
the street from where Mom and Dad lived in Shaunavon, my first sight of
her was very disappointing, Mom had a very hard delivery and Myrl's face
was somewhat squashed as baby's are sometimes - she wasn't the doll I
wanted to play with!
Mom
would occasionally ask me to run errands for her to Stevenson's General
Store, she would give me 25 cents in my hand to buy a bag of broken cream-filled
biscuits that would cost about $3 today. I would start out with the money
clutched tight in my hand and away I went about one and a half blocks
down the board walk to the store, on the way were many distractions for
a small girl and nearly always I would lose the money down the board walk
and then go home again for a scold and another 25 cents! This procedure
was repeated many times and Mom says when the board-walk was taken up
there someone would have found their fortune!
My
sister who was nicknamed "Bubbles" was young enough to never really be
a buddy to me and she was never very well. There wasn't a fence around
the house so when she was about 2 years old Mom had to tie her to the
clothesline to play outdoors, the reason was that when she heard Dad's
truck coming she would race out into the middle of the traffic, she screamed
and threw tantrums when tied to the line but at least it kept her alive!
Dad had acquired a fox terrier for us to play with, the only thing he
was really good for was jumping so guess what his name was? Jumper of
course! He did try to protect me from neighborhood bullies though.
Other
things about Shaunavon I remember are:
- the
little autumn colored celluloid biplane I was allowed to play with very
carefully,
- the plate
of four devilled eggs that Bubbles ate when we weren't looking, she
loved them but they were supposed to be for our supper!
- the day
Mom put on her lovely pale green georgette dress with a wide brimmed
hat to match, dressed Bubbles in a white silk dress, (don't know what
I wore) put her in the big wicker pram and we went shopping. Mom bought
some purple grapes and while she was unlocking doors to get into the
house we got into the grapes! Bubbles dress was ruined, I got a spanking
and the lovely day was spoilt.
- the time
Dad and a neighbor took our families out to the Cypress Hills for the
afternoon, Dad and friend were a bit thoughtless, they went up on a
hill leaving us in the car then started rolling rocks down. They heaved
a huge rock and when it rolled down it missed the car by about a foot,
we may have all been killed! I have never seen Dad as frightened as
he was then!
- the time
my friends came for a visit, the Mum's wanted to chat so we were given
some money to spend, away we went and came back with licorice whips,
whistles, and pipes which I had never been allowed to have before. They
were delicious of course and I'd like to taste one again.
- the
livery stable at the back of our house on the next block, I loved the
horses there, I didn't go into it but it was so mysterious!
- going
with Mom & Dad to visit Billy Bock Snr
and Louise and family at Eastend, Sask. (he was a Member of Parliament,
Author and a Potter). The two youngest children Digger and Punch (nicknames)
who let me ride a horse while the adults had a real wild time making
music! The whole family could play musical instruments and they put
out the most beautiful jazz and honky-tonk music!
When
the depression came in the "Thirties" Dad lost his job with Imperial Oil.
The government of the day gave men the chance to go north to the bush
and take up a 160 acre homestead, in two years they had to build a proper
house and a barn and clear and plant a certain acreage. If
they succeeded - "proved up on it", it was theirs to keep, at the same
time Grandpa and Era & Wilber Eddy signed up for adjoining blocks, but
guess who had to do all the work? Dad of course! Grandpa was too old and
crippled to do real heavy work and Wilber was the "professor" type.
Anyway Dad, Mom and Bubbles moved up to the farm and lived in an old fashioned
floorless white tent till Dad could get a building up. He had to cut down
trees, took some to a saw mill with borrowed horses so he could have flooring
and slabs for the roof of the barn. The rest of the logs went into a "shack"
on the range line which comprised two small bedrooms and one large "cum
everything" room, it had only one window with no glass, just oiled cotton.
Before
I get ahead of myself, Granny and I went for a trip on the train to Big
River, Sask. at the end of the railroad line where Dad picked us up in
a wagon and took us out to the homestead at Ladder Valley which was 6
miles to the east for our visit. We stayed in a tent too, and for the
one and only time of my life in the bush I was very frightened by the
noises at night of all the small animals, and one particular bird. At
the time I didn't know what it was but next day Dad told me about it,
it is called a Mosquito Hawk, in the evenings and early night of summer
it feeds on mosquitoes which it does by diving in the air with its mouth
open for mossies, at the end of the dive it goes up again abruptly and
the action of the wings makes the most frightening sound which scared
me in the tent. The next night we went out and watched them and of course
I wasn't worried any more!
In
the hard times there seems to be lots of humor around every corner, in
the big tent was a bed, cot, table & chairs, a cupboard and also a kitchen
stove. The cupboard didn't have a back so it was set against the tent
wall, I remember Mom doing some baking and needing an egg so she opened
the bottom right hand door, reached in and got one warm fresh egg right
out of the nest! I thought that was so funny as I saw the hen just going
out under the side of the tent, there being no chicken coop an enterprising
hen had to find herself a safe spot for her eggs! Later on Rosie the cow
came to be milked and announced herself by sticking her ugly moose-like
head (she had no horns) through the tent flap and mooing!
When
the holiday was over Granny and I went back to Watrous but I didn't want
to go as it was a paradise in the bush. Mom and Dad didn't get into the
shack till winter came and the snow flew, to keep warm in the tent they
only had the kitchen stove and they banked the snow halfway up around
the tent to keep in the heat. That first year they lived on potatoes,
eggs and milk, in the spring they tried to plant a garden but the weather
was so wet it got washed out. The shack was built beside a meadow that
flooded that year, and to get to town it had to be crossed so the horses
had to swim and pull the wagon too.
Mom, Dad and Bubbles had traveled from Shaunavon by a little Ford coupe
and had their belongings shipped up by train, when they got to the meadow
the car couldn't cross it so it sat there for a year or two until Dad
sold it. When we visited the next time we stayed in the shack, in the
big room was a "Winnipeg" couch which was made into a bed for company,
and that was my bed there. This next little story might make you squeamish
but it's true so I'll will tell it, when Mom and Dad moved into the shack
they also acquired a boarder a little half sized female cat, of course
there were hundreds of mice about so the cat was allowed to stay in at
night when it was "mouse time". In the mornings when I woke up I had to
watch where I put my feet, the floor and rugs were covered with literally
a dozen or two dead mice! The cat was a wonderful mouser but couldn't
eat all it caught so it dined on the most delectable bit which was the
head, and left the bodies for the rest of us!
The
things I remember about the shack that I loved were the big black cook
stove, the big flour barrel, the nice colorful rugs Mom made out of rags
for the floor, and the rifle & shotgun Dad had on pegs just above the
door handy in case of trouble with wild animals. At night there were millions
of mosquitoes which we tried to control by making "smudges", little fires
covered with leaves and grass to make them smoke which were lit beside
a doorway or in a container which was carried through the house to discourage
the mossies, all the beds had mosquito nets over them of course. Besides
the mosquitoes we could watch the tiny shining lights of fireflies at
dusk, they are a small beetle that flies and when it's wings are open
it shows it's phosphorescent body which glows like a tiny lantern.
I
used to play hide and seek with Bubbles, when I couldn't find a place
to hide Mom helped me into the flour barrel on top of the flour sacks
and put the lid on, it was a good hiding place so Mom had to help Bubbles
find me. When it was her turn to hide she hid behind the coats hanging
on the wall but she didn't realize we could see her legs, so we pretended
we couldn't find her and it became her favorite hiding place. Dad made
a swing which hung from a tree and on hot days we used it a lot, Bubbles
and I had the most wonderful "playground", all around was the bush with
all sorts of things to see and play with, new trees, flowers, insects
and animals, like the garden of Eden!
No-one
had ever lived on or used that piece of land so we were actually the pioneers,
a most glorious thought! I loved nothing better than to be by myself in
the bush to enjoy nature.
The trees in the bush consisted of white and black poplars, spruce, silver
birch and an assortment shrubs of all sizes, the shrub I liked best was
the pussy willow and the high bush cranberries which produced clusters
of little red berries, after a hard frost the berry was very sour but
edible and we could squeeze them between our fingers and shoot the flat
seeds at each other - lots of fun but the juice stained our clothes.
The
flowers in the bush were not as numerous as on the prairies, the ones
I liked were the tiger lilies that grew by the thousands and had up to
seven or eight flowers on the one stem and the fireweed that sprang up
after a bushfire, it grew tall with a pinkish blossom and the seeds were
like cotton wool that flew everywhere in the breeze. A blue star flower
with a grass-like stem was so dainty and where it was damp there were
marsh marigolds, ladyslippers and birdbills, oh I must not forget bluebells
and black-eyed susans and along the roads were wild roses and golden rod.
We had some pussy willows that grew around the pond at the bottom of the
garden and there were also ducks and flocks of blackbirds that lived there.
In the summer and autumn we stocked up on wild fruit, there were strawberries
no bigger than a fingernail but so much sweeter and better than cultivated
ones, they were very hard to find though as they are a shy plant, we considered
them treasures!
Then
there were raspberries, high and low bush blueberries, sakatoons, pincherries,
chokecherries, June berries, redcurrants and blackberries, all these wild
fruits kept us going through the winter as we didn't have peaches or pears,
etc. Apples and oranges we had to buy and bananas were sheer luxury! One
time Dad, Mom, Bubbles and I loaded the big wagon with food for lunch
and pails to go picking berries, we drove into the hills to collect bush
blueberries that grow down very close to the sandy soil. We had a lovely
time and decided to return the next day, we started out again next morning
only to find when we got there that a big rotten log had been turned over
on the spot where we had been picking, by other signs we knew that a bear
had visited for his share of the berries and to eat the ants in the log,
we didn't stay there long - just left him to it!
There
were also birds galore, thrushes, robins, three types of blackbirds-plain,
black with red on their wings or with red and yellow stripes on their
wings, woodpeckers and flickers, owls, wrens, humming birds, kingfishers
and King birds, several kinds of hawks, swallows, partridges, prairie
chickens, ptarmigan, several kinds of ducks, Canada geese and in a spot
a short distance from us were whooping cranes. Those are most of the kinds
of birds but also many others like the beautiful little ball of grey fluff
that had a black cap and tie, it swung back and forth upside down on branches
and sang "chick-a-dee-dee-dee". These were birds found in the north, further
south there were meadow larks with glorious songs and other prairie birds.
Where
we lived in northern Saskatchewan was the spot that migrating Monarch
butterflies came to, they would settle all around us and around puddles
to get the moisture on hot days. Wild animals abounded, deer, moose, squirrels,
skunks, badgers, coyotes, foxes, gophers and ground hogs, weasels, rabbits,
snow shoe hares and a few miles away in some foot-hills there were brown
bears, further north there were wolves, polar bears and wolverines. At
dusk the bats would come out and fly just over your head and around your
ears! I used to walk along the road on a warm fall evening and would watch
hundreds of bats flying towards me straight at my head but not one ever
actually touched me !
Beside
the house was a wood pile where gorgeous little chipmunks played, they
were about the size of a large mouse, tan colored with two dark stripes
down the back, they move very quickly darting here and there and are very
cheeky. I remember Bubbles and I standing perfectly still in the middle
of Mom's flower garden only moving our eyes to watch the humming birds
taking nectar from the flowers, they were too fast in flight for the eye
to follow and they were like flying jewels so beautifully colored, and
we'd get down on my hands and knees in the nasturtium patch biting off
the end of each flower and sucking out the honey, yummy!
The
weather was very hard in some seasons like winter but I loved it, the
snow would start falling at the end of October and would stay with us
until April or May. The temperature would be cold enough to keep the snow
dry and crisp like sugar until the spring thaw and then that was the only
time we could make real snowballs and snowmen, the snow balled on the
horses hooves which means it caked up under their hooves as they trotted
along harnessed to the sleigh or cutter and their foot action would throw
the snowballs back at the driver, us
kids thought that was great fun!
A
big event was when Dad got the sleigh bells out and put them on the horses'
harness, when Bess and Maude trotted through the snow the bells sounded
so happy and Christmassy and we'd sing Jingle Bells at the top of our
lungs!! I recall coming home after dark in the harvest season when a huge
harvest moon would be shining, we'd be riding in the big wagon singing
all the songs we knew, particularly "Harvest Moon"! I'm sure people thought
I was a little mad because I liked walking out in a blizzard when the
wind howled around me and took my breath away, it blew the snow into hard-packed
drifts that made walking difficult.
Memoirs: Beryl A.
(Bock) McPhee
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